Field journal · Six-part expedition
Greenland Expedition
Kalaallit Nunaat
06chapters33minutes of reading141photographs
01 — Expedition brief
A long coast, told in six stops
This six-part Greenland Expedition brings you the discoveries, mishaps and small victories from our journey down Greenland’s west coast. The notes may prove useful if you are plotting a similar trip, or if you simply have a weakness for photographs of places where icebergs outnumber sensible footwear. Accidental readers are welcome too: Greenland is a properly magnificent piece of planet, well worth seeing—even second-hand, from somewhere with central heating.
A sensible introduction to Greenland02 — North Atlantic route
From runway to icefjord, then south by sea
- 01Copenhagen
- 02Kangerlussuaq
- 03Ilulissat
- 04Oqaatsut
- 05Sisimiut
- 06Maniitsoq
- 07Nuuk
03 — Contact sheets
Choose your next frame
Read in order for the full expedition, or jump straight to whichever piece of ice looks most persuasive.
01Planning the tripPart one of the Greenland Expedition: practical notes for anyone considering a journey to the world's largest island.
02Getting thereVia Copenhagen and Kangerlussuaq to Ilulissat, with our first Arctic mosquitoes, icebergs and a sun that refused to go to bed.
03IlulissatPart three from Ilulissat: its icefjord, hiking trails, brewery and a pathless march through the wilderness in pursuit of a geocache.
04OqaatsutA boat ride through the ice to a fishing settlement of fifty people, two hundred dogs and one exceptionally fresh seal lunch.
05Sailing southThirty-eight hours and seven hundred kilometres by coastal ferry from Ilulissat to Nuuk, with stops in Sisimiut and Maniitsoq.
06Nuuk, the capitalThe final Greenland chapter: Nuuk, a hike to Lake Qallussuaq, Czech diplomacy, Godthåb Bryghus and the slow journey home.